club
Saturn Player
Joined: January 2011
Posts: 115
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Post by club on Apr 20, 2011 19:23:05 GMT
I see, just one of those things. Guess the 360 is no great loss provided everything else works
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Post by buckoa51 on Apr 20, 2011 20:41:36 GMT
Why do you want to use the 360 through the TV box anyway? Just get a VGA cable, much better.
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club
Saturn Player
Joined: January 2011
Posts: 115
Location:
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Post by club on Apr 20, 2011 22:04:58 GMT
Damn I'm dumb sometimes
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Post by yuji on Apr 21, 2011 4:39:20 GMT
If it wasn't for my boarder problem, it wouldn't take 20 minutes. Problem is, sometimes my LCD looses sync and the boarder setting gets reset Then I have to tweak the LCD settings again while in game, which ruins the game play. Also the NeoGeo AES connected via RGB didn't work out either, and that was my final punch to make my move for a CRT TV.
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Post by buckoa51 on Apr 21, 2011 13:21:32 GMT
I've never seen any boarders, are you using B1 mode? Did you use composite sync from your Neo Geo?
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club
Saturn Player
Joined: January 2011
Posts: 115
Location:
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Post by club on Jun 12, 2011 22:35:56 GMT
Bumping this rather than making a new thread.
Acquired an XRGB2+ and an RGB SCART cable the other day and was wondering about the best leads to get for my Dreamcast and Neo Geo would be. From what I gather a standard Japanese RGB SCART cable should do for the Neo (Japanese model so I'm not worried about blowing anything up here). The DC though... it's a UK model - if I buy a Japanese 21 pin RGB SCART cable, should it work ok?
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Post by buckoa51 on Jun 12, 2011 22:57:41 GMT
Dreamcast it's hardly worth bothering, since there's only a handful of games that don't run in VGA, just stick the Dreamcast via VGA directly to your TV. The alternative is a cable swap or a mod to the VGA box.
Neo Geo depends on your console, use the composite sync output if you have it, but later models don't.
Also, triple check those SCART leads are actually JP21, since it's actually pretty uncommon.
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club
Saturn Player
Joined: January 2011
Posts: 115
Location:
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Post by club on Jun 14, 2011 15:12:05 GMT
Thanks, shall do. The XRGB arrived today and has a Japan to Euro SCART thingy, so should be covered. As I understand it, the reason a Euro SCART could blow it is because of the wiring. So, I presume that if I plug a Euro component cable in via the D1 input adapter, everything will be a-ok. Right? EDIT: Holy shizzle my Saturn looks good
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Post by zyrobs on Jun 14, 2011 20:32:14 GMT
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Post by buckoa51 on Jun 15, 2011 9:22:31 GMT
Yeah component is the same wherever, its just Euro SCART is wired differently to JP21 RGB.
No need, he's already got an adaptor.
If you're using a model 2, try to get a Japanese model and mod a SCART cable to use the machines pure sync, on the model 1 this isn't necessary, at least from what I've been told. Also since you are using a 2+ you probably won't get the screen blanking when it goes bright white problem, so the pure sync issue isn't as important.
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Post by zyrobs on Jun 15, 2011 10:35:41 GMT
If you're using a model 2, try to get a Japanese model and mod a SCART cable to use the machines pure sync, on the model 1 this isn't necessary, at least from what I've been told. The AV out is the same on all models, except PAL. No difference between model 1/2 saturns though.
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Post by buckoa51 on Jun 15, 2011 12:09:02 GMT
Sorry, should have said NTSC model. The Model 1 has a slightly better RGB output signal than the model 2, but this difference is negated by using pure sync on the model 2.
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Post by zyrobs on Jun 15, 2011 14:07:24 GMT
Sorry, should have said NTSC model. The Model 1 has a slightly better RGB output signal than the model 2, but this difference is negated by using pure sync on the model 2. uh, what? Is this some ntsc only thing? I've only tried on my PAL machines, but RGB quality is the same in both model 1 and 2. And c-sync is present on all NTSC models regardless if its model 1 or 2, but is exchanged with a +9v line on PAL models, again regardless if its model 1 or 2.
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Post by buckoa51 on Jun 15, 2011 15:34:32 GMT
RGB quality is slightly better on the Model 1 Saturn, the picture is a tiny bit sharper and there's no colour crawl but you have to be pretty anal to spot it. Switch the Model 2 over to pure sync however and there is no difference in picture. Things like the XRGB seem to exaggerate any little imperfection, stuff you would have never noticed on a CRT.
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Post by zyrobs on Jun 15, 2011 17:42:02 GMT
Well, I don't see how can there be any difference considering both consoles use the exact same components. It's either placebo, or you have a Saturn model that doesn't use a CXA1645 but some cheaper replacement. I have a VA9 pal model 2 machine, that has pretty damn crap quality even in RGB since it uses a BH7236AF video encoder. Tapping c-sync for RGB possibly fixes this since c-sync is sourced from the VDP2 directly, and bypassing the video encoder.
One of the XRGB boxes can save screenshots, by the way. If your model can do that, I'd love to see some comparisons. I didn't notice any differences between model 1/2 machines, and I'm pretty anal about it too - I spent a day soldering a custom cable to get rid of problems.
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