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Post by prabmire on May 17, 2011 14:11:08 GMT
hey all,
I'm going to get a V saturn soon for a bargain price, i was just wondering if its ok to use the pal scart? i know you can't use the jp scart on pal but can pal be used on jp? also i was looking at rgb to component scalers are these worth investing in?
Prab
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Post by superdeadite on May 17, 2011 14:19:35 GMT
The cable socket on the Saturn itself between NTSC and PAL Saturns is different. You need a Euro Scart built for a JP Saturn.
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Post by prabmire on May 17, 2011 14:23:23 GMT
yes i know that i need a euro scart built for jp saturns, but i was wondering if i can use my pal scart direct with the jp saturn or if i need to shell out for another jp compatible scart, i'll see what happens when it arrives, it comes with the crappy composite cable!
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Post by Yart on May 17, 2011 15:32:29 GMT
It works. I use European RGB SCART on my Japanese Saturn.
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Post by superdeadite on May 17, 2011 16:44:12 GMT
yes i know that i need a euro scart built for jp saturns, but i was wondering if i can use my pal scart direct with the jp saturn or if i need to shell out for another jp compatible scart, i'll see what happens when it arrives, it comes with the crappy composite cable! Ok, you've lost me.... |
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Deleted
Joined: January 1970
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2011 21:51:55 GMT
It works. I use European RGB SCART on my Japanese Saturn. so do I. Had fun getting colour though which seems to be down to my TV- posted an article on this very site. |
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Post by zyrobs on May 17, 2011 22:18:05 GMT
Argh, this again.
The difference between pal and ntsc saturn pinouts is that ntsc models output c-sync, while pal saturns output +9vdc on the same pin. RGB Scart cables require a certain voltage on pin16 of the scart plug, to tell your TV that the input is RGB, and not the default composite.
For some reason, some idiot decided to use the +9vdc pin for making RGB Scart cables for the Saturn. These, when used in an NTSC saturn, will end up getting a strange alternating current on the RGB switch pin, instead of a stable direct current. The result is that some TVs will freak the fuck out and either only display composite, or switch between composite and RGB nonstop.
However, ALL Saturns have a +5vdc pin on the AV out. If a cable uses that for RGB switching, then it'll work on ALL Saturns, pal and ntsc. The trick is to know if your cable does that. The cables at Rob Webb / consolegoods are confirmed to use +5v, so they'll work on all saturns. The cables sold at playasia use +9v and will only work on pal machines. Adaptorman on ebay sells separate cables for each model for some reason, though I'd be willing to bet that his usa/jpn cables work on pal consoles equally as well.
tl,dr: usa/jpn SCART RGB cables should work on all consoles, PAL Scart RGB consoles may or may not work, depending on the cable and your TV.
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Post by buckoa51 on May 18, 2011 9:26:19 GMT
Exactly, depends how the cable is wired up, if you are very lucky you can find JP/US cables wired to use the pure sync instead of crappy composite video, which often results in a better picture.
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Post by zyrobs on May 18, 2011 11:06:24 GMT
Exactly, depends how the cable is wired up, if you are very lucky you can find JP/US cables wired to use the pure sync instead of crappy composite video, which often results in a better picture. Or a jumping picture, since the c-sync out on the Saturn is not coupled and has too high voltage. Most TVs can split the sync out of composite signal anyway, the real quality issue is that most Saturn RGB cables use the cheapest available material, so there is a lot of interference between every signal (r/g/b/c/2xaudio). That's what gives you wavy screens and buzzing noise in the audio. |
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Aydan
Joined: August 2007
Posts: 2,086
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Post by Aydan on May 18, 2011 11:11:37 GMT
just buy a NTSC JP scart off ebay. I picked one up from this dude who makes them himself and if you have any issues even refunds you and will help you to fix the issue. Fantastic guys, mine arrived same day as my JP saturn, plugged it up, been PERFECT ever since. Cannot be happier.
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Post by buckoa51 on May 18, 2011 12:29:43 GMT
Saturn c-sync is fine and using it can remove things like colour crawl on a picture (where certain colours have like a dot-crawl effect e.g. Reds). It's also needed with the XRGB3.
Adaptorman perhaps? His cables are good.
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Post by zyrobs on May 18, 2011 19:02:29 GMT
Saturn c-sync is fine and using it can remove things like colour crawl on a picture (where certain colours have like a dot-crawl effect e.g. Reds). It's also needed with the XRGB3. When I used c-sync on my panasonic tv, I got jumping picture in PAL mode and rainbowing at mosaic effects in NTSC. Neither were present when using Composite. Of course, the xrgb3 may have more tolerance for an out-of-spec c-sync signal. Perhaps with the correct resistor to modify the output voltage, the saturn c-sync signal would be a better choice (especially since, as I recall, it had centered the screen in PAL). But I'm not fit to figure out the right values. |
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Post by buckoa51 on May 20, 2011 13:30:18 GMT
Strange I can't find any evidence of the Saturn's c-sync being out of spec, I've used it here on XRGB3 and DVDO Edge and it resulted in a better picture on both. Using pure sync on my Megadrive and SNES also improved the picture (no colour crawl any more at 50 or 60hz). I tried the pure sync MD on our Panny TV (w/o a video processor) and it worked fine. Can't try the Saturn though since I have unsoldered the signal pins (XRGB3 and Edge don't use them)
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Post by zyrobs on May 20, 2011 20:58:27 GMT
iirc c-sync is +1v +75ohm.
Saturn c-sync is some 2.47v, Megadrive (model 1 pal) was around ~4v, don't remember the exact value. There are a lot of reports of Megadrive c-sync being bad though, most guides recommend cutting a trace for it on the av-out and replacing it with the c-sync out from the video encoder which has a lower voltage and more stable picture.
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Post by buckoa51 on May 20, 2011 21:24:16 GMT
You need to mod the Megadrive/Genesis 1 before you can use its pure sync line, yes.
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