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Post by zyrobs on May 1, 2012 22:48:27 GMT
Also, removing the C-SYNC on a Jap Saturn just to get a cable to work is madness. Lots of newer tellies and things like the XRGB3 work much better with raw sync cables. Retro console accessories carries raw sync cables for Japanese Saturns (obviously won't work on PAL machines). I've yet to hear of a TV that required c-sync instead of normal composite to work with rgb scart, and very few people own a XRGB3. If you are that squeamish, it's always possible to add a switch so you can change that pin output from csync to voltage, though.
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Aydan
Joined: August 2007
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Post by Aydan on May 1, 2012 23:55:41 GMT
Does all this sync bollocks only apply using rgb in NTSC countries? All this talk and detail, buy an NTSC scarf and fucjing play fucking iPad auto correct... Scart
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Post by zyrobs on May 2, 2012 1:08:08 GMT
Does all this sync bollocks only apply using rgb in NTSC countries? All this talk and detail, buy an NTSC scarf and fucjing play fucking iPad auto correct... Scart I'm getting tired of writing down the same thing the 4th time so why don't you just read back on the thread?
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Aydan
Joined: August 2007
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Post by Aydan on May 2, 2012 9:06:59 GMT
Because you constantly make things difficult. Buy an RGB made for NTSC consoles, or buy an RGB made for PAL. stop making things difficult xD
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Post by sfgsgvs on May 2, 2012 9:27:39 GMT
Where can you buy cheap RGB scart cables these days? Play-Asia used to have them for under $10 with shipping
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Post by buckoa51 on May 2, 2012 9:35:33 GMT
Strange both my TV's have shown an improvement using raw sync instead of composite video for sync.
What's the point though, as others have said just buy the right f'in cable.
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Post by zyrobs on May 2, 2012 13:18:29 GMT
Because you constantly make things difficult. Buy an RGB made for NTSC consoles, or buy an RGB made for PAL. stop making things difficult xD Use an RF lead, that should be simple enough for you. Strange both my TV's have shown an improvement using raw sync instead of composite video for sync. Mine improved as well when I experimented with raw sync vs normal composite (composite added a washout interference), but that was because I used the cheap cables from play-asia and rob webb. Since then I got a proper rgb cable that had ferrite beads on each end, and that cable has zero problems - no composite interference, and almost zero audio noise.
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Post by buckoa51 on May 2, 2012 15:06:05 GMT
Same experience here regardless of cable type (RCA and Adaptorman's cables are good quality) especially on Model 2 Saturn's which tend to have less of a good picture than model 1's by a tiny margin.
I question how useful Ferrite beading is tbh It's never seemed to make a jot of difference to me.
Anyway, raw sync will either produce the same results or better, so it's not wise to mod it out.
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Post by zyrobs on May 2, 2012 15:55:35 GMT
It's your cable then. I have a third party RCA cable that gives very good composite quality and completely noise-free audio, and a third party RGB Scart that has ferrit beads on each end and gives no washout whatsoever and very little audio noise. The Play-asia and Rob Webb cables I bought had tons of washout and very noisy audio. Using raw sync reduced the washout but did not completely eliminate it.
I have a cable incoming that looks like it's the official SEGA one. The pictures I've seen of it match the one Mik posted perfectly. I'll check my various models with that.
I noticed that thing about later model 2s, the sync signal is more suspicious to interference and you get ripples in the screen. It's more noticeable when the cd drive is loading - when the drive is disconnected, I get zero such ripples. This happens in model 2s with the single board design, VA6+ motherboards, but not on VA5 ones. I recall the ripples being much less noticeable with the proper RGB cable I'm using now, though. I'd guess that it's a design flaw that never became an issue, only with third party cables, due to those being much lower quality. Also, I don't have the last cd drive revision, so I don't know if the problem persists on that or not.
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Post by buckoa51 on May 2, 2012 17:24:02 GMT
Definitely not just down to the cable, raw sync is just better in some instances especially on Model 2's.
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Post by zyrobs on May 2, 2012 19:16:24 GMT
I have a cable that gives the same quality results with composite video, as another crap cable does with raw sync. Perfect video in each case. So I'd say it's up to the cable.
Model 2s have this ripple in the screen, again because of signal interference.
I get these results on my plasma screen though. On my no-name CRT, even the crap cable with a later model 2 machine gets perfect picture (audio noise is still there though). I have no idea how an upscaler like the xrgb would behave though.
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Aydan
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Post by Aydan on May 3, 2012 1:34:50 GMT
'Use an RF lead, that should be simple enough for you.'
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Post by MIK on May 3, 2012 3:31:37 GMT
You may find the official lead that came with the machines suffers with audio noise. Any white or a lot of it on screen then you may hear a slight buzz with the volume up. Depending on TV model may also depend on how loud it could be. Not to bad on my Commodore RGB screen, but on the Toshiba it's slightly louder... Can't hear it mind when game audio is pumping out lol.
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Post by buckoa51 on May 3, 2012 9:14:05 GMT
Yeah well seriously Adan pay attention, only noobs buy the correct cable for their console! Obviously the correct course of action is to open up your Saturn and start hacking away at the AV port, modding out the consoles raw sync output so that you can use a PAL SCART cable. If you then need raw sync later, just obtain a super rare mythical ultra higher quality SCART lead instead
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Aydan
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Post by Aydan on May 3, 2012 10:26:06 GMT
OMG NOOB. NO, ONLY NOOBS BUY CORRECT SCARTS IN FIRST PLACE. USE RF COS ITS MAW SIMPLE LK ME.
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