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Post by zyrobs on May 5, 2022 15:30:16 GMT
Will need some pictures of your work.
Also this might not be helpful but have you tried removing the mod, to see if it works without it? With how much effort this mod takes, it's easier to just install a region free bios, especially on that motherboard, since the boot rom isn't glued down.
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Post by zyrobs on May 4, 2022 14:46:44 GMT
The carts aren't being made anymore as far as I know, so I imagine any place with a regular supply would use recently made "knockoffs" to keep the stock up. And weren't the original ones made in china anyway? They are far more likely to have issues not because they are poor quality, but because Saturns generally need maintenance nowadays.
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Post by zyrobs on May 3, 2022 10:51:58 GMT
I'm not aware of anything that's better than the official Backup cart (for saving directly in-game) or the Action Replay (cheating and RAM expansion).
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Post by zyrobs on Mar 27, 2022 9:57:49 GMT
Seems like a VDP2 memory issue, I'd start by testing IC15 and IC16 and work my way back from there to the VDP2 and SCU to see if everything is connected.
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Post by zyrobs on Mar 4, 2022 18:08:43 GMT
Every drive is calibrated individually so I don't think someone sending photos would give you the correct settings.
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Post by zyrobs on Mar 3, 2022 23:25:01 GMT
I have also heard the stories about Japanese living rooms and size expectations. It was quite the discussion when the old Xbox first dropped. Granted, that thing was HUGE Yeah, I miss the xbox hueg memes. Granted the Xbox One was sizeable too, and got its fair share of those as well.
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Post by zyrobs on Feb 27, 2022 19:16:55 GMT
I am not sure what is going on with your issue but I can help with the region switch and memory. I suspect something went wrong when you changed the cap. Possibly there are multiple regions currently active but I don't think the system will boot in those circumstances. What revision are we working with here? The fact the memory formats means it is working properly. If the memory bank has failed then you cannot format it. I have only seen this during a botched FRAM install. As far as the switch goes, you can see if it is working by checking the system menu. Go into the BIOS from the disc menu and look in the bottom right corner. The middle code is the region; -1 is Japan, -4 is USA, and -C is Europe. You can easily remove the switch and permanently set the region but I would keep the switch. The system will boot no matter what the region jumpers are set to, it's just that games won't boot if they don't have a corresponding region code. Action Replay will get you to boot any *defined* region, but there's a handful of reserved settings which won't boot even that way. The AR isn't really region free, it's just set to boot on all 8 or so defined regions. Reserved regions still won't boot at all, AR or not. You need a region free bios to get around that, it will just skip the part where the bios checks the region (games can still check it later). Also only the US and PAL bios will display the region code, and even then they'll only display regions 1, 2, 4 and C. If you set anything else they'll default to 1, if I recall right. So you could have a broken switch and it'll still say region 1!
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Post by zyrobs on Feb 12, 2022 1:45:38 GMT
What happens if you remove the MODE and put back the original CD drive?
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Post by zyrobs on Feb 11, 2022 15:00:34 GMT
Huh, I didn't knew that. Nice one.
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Post by zyrobs on Feb 11, 2022 0:34:24 GMT
It's been a long while so I don't remember the difference but the one I fitted in my own hss-0136 was the LS-56-01-VF (that's the one on the shop invoice). I think the only difference is in the mounting plate, which you have to unscrew and ditch anyway. Other than that it should be a drop-in replacement as long as you get the -01 suffix models. Note that there are precise technical drawings of the size of the mounting holes which you can use to measure if they fit or not. I know that the LS-56-01-VF fits because I put one in, you can use that as a baseline to see if the other plates work or not.
The stick should already come with a default mounting plate and ball, shouldn't it? I fitted mine with the round gate because I couldn't play shmups with the default rectangle gate. No idea what the short throw mod is.
Also I should mention that I have a busted HSS-0136 with the PCB missing and some extra stuff drilled on it (the button pegs in the metal plate were removed and there are some extra button holes cut in the side frame - for pinball and such), plus the seimitsu stick, the extra round gate, and maybe a dozen or so PS-15 buttons of various colours. I'm not using it and I've been wanting to sell it for a while, in case you are interested. Even have the case and instructions for the stick.
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Post by zyrobs on Feb 10, 2022 17:16:23 GMT
Which stick? If it's the us/pal/grey JP one, that one uses rubber membranes and is generally considered the shittier arcade stick. I don't think there are replacement membranes for that specific controller, but perhaps you could get one from a different controller, cut up the rubber, and tape it in place on the PCB. I don't know how feasible would that be, it's just what I'd try. But maybe the membranes for that model are too big and it wouldn't work, I don't know.
If it's the HSS-0136 virtua stick, those use actual switched parts, sometimes some ASCII crap, sometimes the Seimitsu LS-56 which you can also use as a replacement (I've fitted one before, it's a perfect fit as long as you buy the one with the proper connector). However the artwork/sticker on them covers the screws that you have to undo to open it up, so they'll suffer cosmetic damage when doing so.
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Post by zyrobs on Feb 6, 2022 15:36:12 GMT
This depends on your TV, forcing a PAL unit into NTSC gives a way off spec refresh rate that some TVs can't handle. Since OSSC only line doubles it has to pass this refresh rate through unaltered, therein lies the problem. The pal60 mode also works from SCART input, so I guess the TV passes all inputs through the same chain and does processing (if any) based on that. That would explain why passthrough mode looks the same despite using HDMI input. But yeah, like you said it's TV dependent. With a hdmi to vga converter, using the vga input, I could get the other display modes working but then I got hiccups in the framerate - most likely because the either the TV or the converter expects to work with 60hz instead of 59.94, hence the hiccups. You've tried adjusting V backporch right? I've tried every setting, none of them made any difference.
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Post by zyrobs on Feb 5, 2022 23:38:07 GMT
The ossc has a couple of different display modes, passthrough (this is nearly the same as directly hooking up the SCART cable), and Line2x to 5x. However it's a straight up linedouble/triple/4x/5x on each mode, which may output a kind of signal the TV will not like. On my TV, only Line2x works perfectly, Line3x has the picture shifted down some 20 pixels, 4x and 5x mode does not display anything.
So it's likely that your TV just doesn't like the signal generated by the OSSC.
There's also a shitload of fine-tuning options on the ossc for the output timings, hdmi tx modes, signal filtering, and so on - one of those might help.
also last time I checked the ossc worked fine with ntsc units, pal units, and 60hz modded pal units - so it's not the case of the Saturn not liking the ossc.
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Post by zyrobs on Jan 30, 2022 16:58:26 GMT
May as well try burning the 2.0 version to see if it's the game causing the issue, or just a dodgy disc.
Note that a PC will always read the disc better, so it may show no faults there but the Saturn still won't be able to play the music.
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Post by zyrobs on Jan 29, 2022 14:17:09 GMT
The unit just can't read the audio track. My oldest copy of Baku Baku used to be like that, one of the music tracks simply did not play right or at all. CD Audio is very prone to damage, because it's meant to have interpolation in the decoding, so a few bad bits will still play right - but this just meant that the whole thing has extremely minimal digital error correction, so audio tracks either play or don't.
Maybe it would be a good idea to adjust the optical pickup, it could help. There should be youtube guides for the process, you need a multimeter and maybe a soldering iron to add an extra wire, because the test pin is on the bottom of the drive and you need to read it while the drive is running, hence the wire to extend it.
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