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Post by zyrobs on Dec 23, 2021 6:20:13 GMT
Have you tried using the latest version from the authors GitHub?
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Post by zyrobs on Nov 27, 2021 17:28:23 GMT
IC2 is the slave SH2 and it isn't active all the time (in fact it spends a lot of time idle). Not sure if that's controlled with the reset line on the hardware level.
I think you should consider undoing whatever mods you set up, including the FRAM one. But before you do that, you say you switched out the main crystal - do you know if the crystal is working fine? If it doesn't, that could be the problem.
edit: and if you are already replacing ICs, consider installing a region free bios, then the entire switchless mod will become moot, you'll only need a 50/60 switch (which in reality you'll rarely touch unless you have a sizeable PAL library).
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Post by zyrobs on Nov 27, 2021 0:29:50 GMT
It's not necessary to probe the video output, the console is locked up before it even goes that far.
I see a broken trace around JP6 (above the label on the board). I don't see where it leads to since it goes under the silk screen, and the other part of the trace goes under the chip. You'll have to do continuity checks to find wherever the signal leads to. If both sides of the trace end up under ICs, you can use thin single-strand wire soldered into the vias to repair it.
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Post by zyrobs on Nov 26, 2021 23:07:05 GMT
The last time I had this issue I did a recap AND I replaced the EMI filters on the a/v port, and the fluctuations gradually disappeared after a few hours of playing. Maybe it's the EMI filters that need replacing? I've been meaning to test this for a while, but I don't have the time nowadays, plus all the "problematic" consoles I have will stop crashing after testing for an hour.
It's really extremely strange.
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Post by zyrobs on Nov 25, 2021 22:33:26 GMT
Gonna need pictures for this one.
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Post by zyrobs on Nov 22, 2021 12:12:04 GMT
Considering that the pegs holding the CD drive are on them, and that the console won't work right without the CD drive, you'd have a difficult time getting it working without the shield. I mean maybe you could use an ODE (not the Satiator) but even then you'd have to seat it somewhere.
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Post by zyrobs on Nov 14, 2021 16:43:09 GMT
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Post by zyrobs on Nov 10, 2021 21:43:05 GMT
The app you used for flashing the firmware, you can use it for flashing it back to an action replay firmware just the same. But I have no clue what firmware the shit cards use. Also your link is not working.
However, this should not interfere with the RAM expansion functionality at all, that part is completely passive as far as I know. It's more likely you just need to clean the pins instead.
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Post by zyrobs on Oct 31, 2021 23:39:32 GMT
I haven't tried the one linked above, but the best one I've used was the official cable that came with model 2 PAL consoles.
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Post by zyrobs on Oct 27, 2021 6:30:00 GMT
If the device I'm working on is turned off, I can't get voltages in continuity mode. You don't need to. You are checking if there's a connection between two points or if there's something broken/disconnected. The multimeter will just beep if there's continuity (try testing it by touching the probe ends together) or will be silent if there isn't. The reason I'm saying it's better to do it disconnected is so you don't accidentally short something out.
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Post by zyrobs on Oct 27, 2021 2:02:42 GMT
Where should I put the black pin at when I test for continuity? I'm thinking I'll need the red pin on the ribbon cable. Should I put the black pin on the PSU? When doing a continuity test, you test if electricity can flow between two points. So put the two ends of the probes to the two points that you want to test if they have any connection between them. In this case, probably the ribbon connectors pins on each side (drive and motherboard), with the ribbon attached. The system does not need to be powered when doing this, in fact it's probably better if you don't power it up since it will be a bit tricky to reach the plugs under the ribbon. But based on your description I'm 90% sure that you just need to bend the pins inwards a tiny bit, so they grip the ribbon better.
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Post by zyrobs on Oct 26, 2021 23:38:20 GMT
I don't call it into a question that people have issues with high input lag, I can feel it being an issue too when using a wireless controller over a wired one, or when using MAME with vsync on.
What I'm asking is that if someone can tell apart whether a game has, for example, 2 frames of lag vs 4 frames of lag. Do you guys have double blind tests to measure whether players can detect a difference of 1-2 frames of lag only?
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Post by zyrobs on Oct 26, 2021 14:20:32 GMT
That cable looks like the leftmost pin is broken, which would explain the problem you are getting (pin 1 is the clock signal pin). I'd recommend doing a continuity test with the ribbon installed, on the pins of the connector, to determine what does not connect.
Also maybe try rotating the ribbon ie. so the end plugged in to the cd drive is instead plugged to the motherboard. That will reverse the pin orientation, so that broken looking pin is on a subcode signal, not the main clock signal.
I've a feeling that the ribbons you got are right, but perhaps the connector pins are not touching the ribbon correctly, since you also said that wiggling the ribbons will make the drive connect properly... hence the continuity test. If there's indeed some continuity issue, you can either scrape the metal pins inside the connector gently, or bend them a very tiny bit so they push on the pins more.
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Post by zyrobs on Oct 26, 2021 1:53:51 GMT
The issue with the cubes being mismatched in the CD player (and the audio turning into a low pitch ghastly echo) is caused by the CD drive not being connected, or not being powered. Since the motor runs, it's most likely the ribbon.
From the top of my head, have you made sure the ribbon is in the correct orientation? And that every pin connects properly? It could be something banal like you connected the ribbon backwards. But it's also possible that some of the pins on the connector may be broken. I've also seen a guy once who just didn't push in the ribbon properly.
VA6-9 and VA10+ units use different ribbon pinout, the two drives are not interchangeable.
Also what exactly are you doing that it damages the ribbon? They are pretty sturdy, so I'm curious as to how it got broken. Can you post pics of the console and the old cable?
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Post by zyrobs on Oct 26, 2021 1:43:30 GMT
Yeah, there used to be a seller who sold scrap boards, but he stopped selling them, which sucks, I have several empty shells but lack working motherboards.
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