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Post by zyrobs on Aug 22, 2015 14:14:11 GMT
You need to replace the varistor (140VAC / 180VDC) and the fuse (exact rating is written on the board). I've done it a few times already, and it was only those components that I needed to replace.
But, I have yet to see that type of power supply. Are those the only two components damaged?
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 22, 2015 1:47:10 GMT
TFV is pretty easy even on the hardest setting, so I dunno why anyone would want infinite lives on that game.
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 22, 2015 1:24:07 GMT
Even for all its flaws, it's still a pretty good game with impressive visuals. And one of the few 2d platformers on the machine. Worth its price. Ive never played the Saturn version but Ive always heard it runs worse. Why do you think that is? Saturn was supposed to do 2D better. The game was specifically tailored around things the PS1 could do but the Saturn could not, or only poorly, or only with workarounds. And the team who ported the game did an exceptionally horrible job on top of all of that.
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 21, 2015 1:32:29 GMT
The drive will not spin up if the laser can't see the disc. So most likely you have a problem with the laser.
Adjust the tray length as a first, that should be enough to get it spinning up - it'll spin up once the laser is in focus, even if it can't really read the disc.
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 18, 2015 12:51:43 GMT
It's an Asian / HK model. Identical to Japanese units (runs games at 60Hz), but it has a 220V power supply so it can run in Europe without converters.
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 18, 2015 12:50:22 GMT
The Consolegoods cable is unshielded and crap quality. The Polish one has much better shielding, it is as good as the model 1 original scart cable.
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 12, 2015 17:39:13 GMT
If the additional capacitor is the same physical size as the 2200 already on there I can't see it sitting well on that section of the pcb but I guess I will find out soon enough. Yeah, it will look odd, you'll have to have it staying at an angle. But as long as you don't clip the caps legs early, that won't be a problem (I used a cap from a spare power supply which already had its legs cut, so it barely fit in there... works, though).
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 12, 2015 1:53:21 GMT
You can either replace the TOP202YAI PWM switch on the power supply with a more modern TOP223YN, or add in an extra capacitor as marked on this image: Or do both. I can confirm that adding a cap fixes it, and I've heard of people who changed the PWM switch and fixed the problem that way. I have not tried changing the PWM switch personally, I keep forgetting to order some when I need to get parts...
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 11, 2015 15:36:53 GMT
The card bricked itself. Happens often. Just re-flash it (you need to be able to boot backups for that, though - swap trick will suffice).
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 11, 2015 14:39:00 GMT
Try a regular cart, see if it works.
Clean the ARs contact pins first. Disassemble it, then use a rubber eraser to scrape down the dirt, then isopropyl alcohol to clean it up.
It is more likely that the AR simply bricked itself. It happens often. You can use the Atlas demo launcher to re-flash it, but your saves and manually added cheats will be lost.
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 9, 2015 17:38:21 GMT
I have a 4-in-1 cart as well. Version says it is 2.02. It boots to the menu I can use the cheats, memory manager, and boot imports. Probelm is when I boot marvel vs street fighter or X-men vs street fighter I get the screen full of japanese with 4M on it. Any ideas or would the cart not be comptible with those games? Sorry if this is a stupid question but I'm new to the saturn. It's possible that you have the early AR carts that only have 1mb ram in them, which is why the game gives you the message "please insert a 4M RAM cart". Do any other games work that require 4mb ram?
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Post by zyrobs on Aug 8, 2015 22:20:46 GMT
I guess the game has some quality issues then. It's not unheard of a commercial game to have bugs; I've seen Digital Pinball Necronomicon crash into a debugger window a few times, or have the ball fly out of the stage (both of these forced a game reset).
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Post by zyrobs on Jul 28, 2015 19:11:17 GMT
What is the significance of clean sync for the JP SCART cables? I can see both for sale and will be using them on CRTs for as long as possible and then through a video processor to HD TVs ultimately. Should I go for the clean sync cable that thefoo.83 or the standard cable that also works with PAL consoles? Some devices (XRGB, projectors) require clean sync. TVs with SCART input work fine without it. PAL devices cannot do clean sync without modding the console or a sync splitter built into the cable.
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Post by zyrobs on Jul 27, 2015 1:56:41 GMT
Ah, I found it, you probably already posted it. It looks like it is in pretty awful condition, is possible it was refurbished, but it's also possible that someone just switched cases and wanted to copy over the serial number. The cases are backwards compatible I think (never actually tested it, but all the screw hook-ups and generic shapes are at the same location).
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Post by zyrobs on Jul 26, 2015 14:20:29 GMT
Yeah, that's the one, it lists the manufacturing date. For ex. AF68270000 would be made by AF (Hyundai), on 1996/08/27 (this was in a machine with the serial number AF67091875).
AE68 and AE64 sound like normal units to me, not sure what you mean about them having stickers put on top of older stickers.
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